October 7, 2001

My dear friends,

 

            After a long hiatus and many broken promises, finally here is travelogue number 5. I hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoy the opportunity to sit back and reflect on my adopted culture, and to share my scattered reflections with you.

            The first thing I want to share with you is the reaction of the people here to the recent terrible events back in America. Since I was the only American residing on campus at the time, and one of the few U.S. citizens in Morogoro, I immediately became the recipient of the condolences of many people: confreres, students, workers, teachers, etc. Even total strangers would stop me on the street just to express their heartfelt shock and grief. I was very touched by their sincere concern. And I pass it along to each of you. Of course everyone wanted to know if my own family or friends lived in or around New York or Washington. They were as relieved as I that no one I knew personally was injured, missing, or killed. These events touched a deep cord of human solidarity with many Tanzanian people, perhaps in part because of the recent attack on the embassy in Dar es Salaam. For whatever consolation it may bring, you can be assured that Americans are not viewed with disdain everywhere. We have many friends in Africa.

            What I wanted to reflect on today is Tanzanian hospitality. I say “Tanzanian” rather than “African” hospitality simply to reinforce the notion that Tanzania is a country whereas Africa is a continent. Even though Tanzania has almost 200 different tribes, each with it’s own lan­gu­age and distinctive culture, they share many similarities. Africa on the other hand is mind-numbingly complicated with uncountable languages and cultures. There are serious scholars who say that not one single true statement can be made about Africa as a whole...except perhaps for this one statement! So I must remind myself, and you dear reader, that my tentative insights into “Africa” are based on mere glimpses of a small Tanzanian sample of a huge continent.

            Anyway, back to the topic of Tanzanian hospitality. During the long break (June to Sept.) I had many opportunities to be a guest and to receive guests. It seems as if everyday life here is really semi-nomadic. People are always on the move, especially during the long break. In addition to many passing guests there were also seminar partici­pants, confreres, and even visitor from abroad.

            The first thing to note is that despite the existence of “guest houses” (small hotels) when traveling everyone seems to stay with someone they know, even if the connection is only a remote contact. This is especially true of religious men and women. We seem always to stay at one another’s houses and spend the evening playing the “Do-you-know-so-and-so Game”.

            The second thing to observe is that almost no one calls ahead to let anyone know they are coming. I think the reason behind this is partly the unpredictability of travel here. People really do not know when or if they will arrive at their destination. I do not know if it is a proper Kiswahili saying, but I often hear people saying what my mother often says when we part, “We’ll see you when we see you!”

            Culturally, what makes it easy to greet even completely unexpected guests so whole heartedly is the deep conviction that guests are a blessing. Full stop. I am slowly learning how deep this conviction is. It is not about reciprocation or superstition. People are not extending hospitality in order to get or to avoid something. There seems to be no­thing calculating in the hospitality they extend. In fact, unlike Korean culture where guests should never come completely empty handed, here gifts seem completely off target. Guests are the gift!

            I am learning this lesson slowly, the hard way. One day when I was exhausted from running around meeting the needs of four completely unexpected overnight guests, I said with as much irony as I could muster, “Guests are a real blessing!” I was astonished to see the radiant expression on the faces of my Tanzanian friends. Far from catching the irony in my remark, they were happy that I seemed finally to be catching on to the first lesson: Guest are a blessing, especially if you are going out of your way to make them feel at home!

            On another level, to have a guest proclaims to the world that you are a human being. If someone has many guests this is a great thing. It means your door is always open to anyone (even though in most traditional Tanzanian houses there is no door!). But just the fact that people come to greet you is a sign that you are a good person. You are connected and well-regarded by others. You are a real human being.

            I am at once ashamed and proud to say that before I arrived as superior of this formation community it had never really entertained even one guest of its own. From what little I have shared so far, I think you can sense how devastating this fact was for us. It meant we were somehow not really human beings. Not worth visiting. Many, many people would come and go, visiting the Institute. But no one ever came to see us, or to eat with us, or even to greet us. But now things are quite different. Now we have almost too many guests (an oxymoron in Tanzanian context) from all over the world. And many of these people have come specifically to se us. Why? Because we are human beings. Needless to say, we do feel richly blessed!

            Visiting the villages I was surprised to see how guests were treated as regards food. When an important guest comes a chicken is always offered. But the guests are ushered into a small room to eat by themselves. The host and all the members of the family discretely absent themselves while the guests eat their fill. If you arrive alone, you may well find yourself eating alone. This custom was explained to me in various ways. But they reduce to the fact that the host wants you as his guest to eat freely, without worrying if there will be enough for others. In point of fact, the family may well be sharing with you the last of what they had to eat for them­selves that day. Eating alone, you are spared the pleading eyes of any hungry children.

            The surest way to insult a visitor is to inquire how long he or she intends to stay! That is the height of impertinence. So day after day, the host waits for an announcement ...some indication from a guest that the visit may be coming to an end. And of course throughout the visitor’s stay, every semblance of normal routine goes out the window. Hence, you will not be surprised to hear there are growing stresses and strains as Tanzanians attempt to retain this traditional way of welcoming visitors in the face of the increasing demands of modern urban life.

            Some people even say the biggest obstacle to economic progress in Tanzania is it’s culture of hospitality. There seems to be no widely acceptable way to be both effi­cient and hospitable. The late President of Tanzania, Julius Neyrere coined a somewhat ironic adage to suggest how to accommodate guests reasonably: “The first day give then a chicken; the second day rice; the third day put a hoe into their hands!” His rye wisdom notwithstanding, the struggle to be a good, modern, Tanzanian host continues.

            As you can see, I am taking careful lessons in how to treat all of my friends when you pop in here unannounced. I can promise that we will suspend all our normal operations, and kill the fatted calf for you (or at least a chicken, or whatever else we can find).  For we are certain that if you come as our guest then you are a blessing and our life will surely increase!

            Be assured that after my first full year in Africa I remain well. It was great this summer to have a visit from Fr. Peter Schuessler, our US Provincial. School and the re-assembling of our community keep me busy, but happily so. I am teaching 4 courses: Introduction to Theology; Homiletics (preaching); an elective course on the canonization process based on Woodward’s popular book :Making Saints”; and a seminar concerning how to write a seminar paper.

            This year our community numbers almost 30. There are two priests, two brothers and one Salvatorian sister who are “associated” with our house, and the rest college-age students from India, Tanzania, Congo, and this year even one from the U.S. I think that outside of our general administration community in Rome we must be the most thoroughly international community of Salvatorians in the world! It’s great, but it’s also a challenge. The next big news on our calendar are the ordinations of 5 SDS deacons on Dec. 8, a general visitation in early January, my two-week trip to Rome in late January for meetings, a Mission Chapter of election in early February, and a new semester beginning a few days later. But I promise to write another travelogue before then.

            I keep each and every one of you in my thoughts and prayers. And send my love, as ever,

 

Fr. Dan