July 6, 2001

 

Dear friends,

 

            The dust of the second semester is finally beginning to settle, and what a whirl­wind of activity it has been! Final exams, papers and grades; graduation; breaking camp (sending people for home leave or back to their homes in India and Congo, or to their parish assignments for the summer); traveling south to a special week-long chapter meeting for mission leadership; a two-day seminar back here and now... nothing! Peace and quiet. Time to clean my room, do some laundry, rest, sort through class notes and papers, catch up on correspondence, read a few racy novels, and begin to think about what’s coming next!

            These days the Institute is practically deserted. At Mass and meals there are only five of us, and soon that will be only three (two if I go anywhere)! But far from being lonely, I find the newfound peace quite refreshing, in part because I know it is only temporary. Little by little, beginning August 1, the house will begin to fill up again. So I am resolved to enjoy the peace while it lasts. I had entertained a number of ideas about traveling around Africa during the month of July, but those thoughts are slowly beginning to fade. Conflicts in the schedules of my potential hosts, interesting invitations closer to home, the hard realities of traveling in Africa, and the universal tendency of bodies at rest to stay at rest...all these things are conspiring to keep me here. Inertia explains so many things!

            My recent trip to the south was interesting and deserves comment. The trip from Dar Es Salaam (the largest city and old seat of government in Tanzania) to Masasi where we met for chapter, is about 300 miles. The trip took 19 hours due to two things: poor roads and the break­down of the ferry that crosses the Rufiji River. People here jokingly refer to the less-developed southern half of the country across the Rufiji by it’s colonial name: Tanganyika because things there have changes so little since inde­pen­dence. One thing that never ceases to amaze me are the “former” blacktop roads. There are long stretches of rather poor gravel roads that had once been completely blacktoped. But they have reverted. In fact, they are worse now than regular dirt roads. There seems just enough asphalt left to retain the outline of all the potholes!

            Along the way I saw many onterestingbirds and an incredible forest of baobab trees. These are the redwoods of Africa in terms of their age and size. Many of the trees I saw could not have been encompassed by four grown men!  Up here near Morogoro we can find an occasional tree or two. And they are impressive. But to see a whole forest of these silver-barked baobabs was quite a sight. It was like glimpsing life on another planet.

            Many of you may feel bored when I talk about things that happened in church. But that is where the most startling and memorable things seem to happen to me. Perhaps they remain so clear in my mind because they are so unexpected by comparison to what goes on in churches back home. Anyway, recently I went to a Mass that celebrated the graduation of a number of nuns from Form 6, roughly equivalent to our high school. (Some day I may write about the education system in East Africa but not today.) Let me share with you three quite memorable things at this Mass.

            The first was the music. In particular I was enchanted by the sound produced by an instrument called the “chungu” or clay pot. From where I sat in the sanctuary I could see near the choir three nuns seated on low chairs. They were somewhat bent over what looked like large, rusted canon balls. But the nuns were holding on to what looked like steering wheels from those bumper cars I remembers from county fair days. These nuns were furiously twisting these steering wheels above the pots from which emanated a low scratching/rumbling noise that kept time with the beat of the music. Later, when I could get closer I saw that the “rusty canon balls” were indeed simply clay pots turned with their mouths towards the ground, but lifted somewhat to allow for resonance. The “steering wheels” were actually the round seats of traditional African stools. The three legs of the stools straddled the upper sides of the pots, and when the seats were twisted the pot began to resonate. It is a special instrument from the far west of Tanzania.

            After the opening dances, songs and processions it was time for the readings. But suddenly everythig ground to a halt because there was no book at the lectern. But I knew what was going on...or at least I thought I knew what to expect. You see, on big feasts before the readings, the book is brought up in another special procession accompanied by more music and dancing.  Generally it is escorted through the church by a woman who carries it wrapped up in cloth and hidden inside a pot or basket which she balances on her head. So when I sense the commotion in the back of church I thought I knew what to expect. And sure enough, first came a dancing procession of 6 or 8 girls, and behind them I could see a tall sister being helped to lift a large basket affair unto her head and start down the aisle. None of this surprised me, until I got a clear look at what was in the basket. The white form in the center of the basket was not a book wrapped in white cloth as I had expected. It was a living child! Perhaps 3 years old. She was dressed all in white, sitting still as a statue, stately as a queen, holding the book in her white-gloved hands. And all the while the nun was dancing arms at herside, turning slow circles so that all the people could see and admire the child holding the book. Even now I am not really sure what the whole thing meant, but it was breathtaking! Everyone else thought so too.

            The final episode happened during Mass, but I only heard about it afterward. It seems there was a monkey in attendance, sitting high among the exposed rafters. The reason I couldn’t see it is that the monkey was sitting directly above my head, maybe 20 feet up. For most of Mass they tell me he was very quiet. But, as often happens, at the time of bringing up the gifts a large stalk of bananas was brought to the altar, and after being displayed for all to see it was set off to the side...just next to me, and just under the monkey. Then the fun began. For it seems the monkey spied the bananas, and for the rest of Mass he kept trying to find the courage to creep closer and closer to the food. But, thanks be to God, either he was not courageous enough or Mass did not last long enough to bring events to a head. I’m not sure what would have happened. My luck with monkeys is pretty bad. In any case, next time you are distracted at Mass or are looking for a distraction, check the rafters. Even if you don’t find a monkey up there you can think of my adventure and maybe offer up a prayer for me.

            Again I want to thank everyone who has contributed prayers for my health and safety and/or gifts to the Fr. Dan Project Fund (c/o Fr. Eric: 1735 Hi Mount Blvd, Milwaukee, WI 53208). I continue to thrive, and it is uncanny how a need will come to my attention and suddenly a gift will appear. Just this week I was approached by a young man, a former seminarian, who is heading up an after-school program for over 100 children. He combines teaching English with AIDS awareness. He was about to begin the new July session but he had no money to photocopy any class materials...English essays, and stories, etc. For the lack of about fifty dollars he was afraid he would have to close down his whole project.  He asked me for help, but I had to decline. My whole salary is less than $40 a month. But I told him I would pray about it and I would keep my eyes open. In the next morning’s e-mail was a note from a parishioner at MGC, the parish where I worked before coming to Africa. After catching me up on all the news she mentioned she had just that day sent $50 to the Project Fund for me to use as I saw fit! Needless to say, the AIDS awareness Program is back on track. Thanks to her. Actually, there are many such stories...some dramatic, others perhaps would seem quite mundane to you although they make a big difference in the lives of people here. So I thank you all for your prayers and support that make these stories possible. 

           

Love, Fr. Dan