Dear friends,                                                                                                  December 1, 2003

 

I hope you are all well! Many greetings from all of us here in Tanzania. Our community continues to grow. When I first arrived in 2000, we had a total of 9 Tanzanian scholastics. By January 1 we will have 23! As they say here, “little by little the jug fills up.” I hope we will organize ourselves well enough to take a group photo soon. I will try to attach it and then, if you can open it, you will really see something!

 

Recently an American friend has come to visit. He plans to spend much of his sabbatical with us (Oct. to May). Watching his fascination with things African, I can see how I have grown so accustomed to life here. Things that really startle, amaze or confuse him, I hardly notice any more. I guess that means I am settling in somehow. That is fine, but it makes it more difficult to find material for a really good travelogue! But I shall try.

 

Today I would like to share two travel stories which taken together reenforce the same point. See if you can guess what it is! The first incident happened during my long summer journey. One day we were in Shinyanga, a good size city with which I was totally unfamiliar. My “attaché” George and I went to the bus stand at city center to catch a lift to his home place, the village of Gula (not on any map).  No problem. Having been assured that his was the right bus I boarded, found my seat and waited. The bus was about 3/4 full, and I knew that it would not leave until it was good and packed. George knew that too and decided to keep circulating outside, hoping to bump into one or the other old friend. So far so good.

 

Then slowly something really strange began to happen. One by one, without a word, the other passen­gers began getting up, collecting their luggage, and leaving the bus. Soon I was the only one left sitting in this big bus. The man who sold the tickets was still there in the front, smiling at me reassuringly from time to time. But I was stumped. What was happening? Suddenly, the bus driver arrived and the engine gunned into action. “No problem,” I thought, until the bus began actually to move. “No problem, maybe we are just repositioning ourselves,” I thought. But no, the bus got under way, completely empty except for me and the driver. As we were pulling out I could just glimpse George (a good head taller than most people) staring at the bus in disbelief. But what could we do? We were launched, on the way, but where?

 

As there was no one to ask, I just sat back and tried to take in the scenery--landmarks--so that maybe, somehow, if necessary I could someday find my way back to the bus stand. First I thought we would just circle the block and return to the stand. But no. The driver took a road that seemed headed for the country. We drove in silence past schools, businesses, and fields. After about 10 minutes I knew I would never be able to find my way back alone, and I had neglected to bring bread crumbs to drop along the way (something that I recall didn’t even work for Hansel and Gretel). Just as I was about to give up all hope, the bus made a sharp turn and came to a stop in front of a metal gate leading to some kind of enclosure. The gate opened and we entered a repair yard of some kind full of dead and dying buses (plus of course some goats and cows, and may young men in different postures of idleness). Aha! Something wrong with the bus, I surmised. But what? Would it be a short fix or a long one?

 

As it turned out the problem was not really mechanical. A strut supporting the seat across the aisle from me had snapped and needed welding. So pretty soon, through the window, came the torches and all the other paraphernalia of the metal workers’ trade. Needless to say, the workers were as surprised to see me as I was to see them. But no problem! In 20 minutes or so we were all repaired and on our way back out the main gate, driving past fields and houses, and schools back into city center and to the bus stand (or so I hoped). Soon I was happy to find myself back in familiar territory, but not half as happy as George was to see me! It would have been very difficult for him to explain to the community how he lost his formator and superior so near his hometown and in broad daylight!

 

The second travel story concerns an old Capuchin priest (mid-eighties)--a Swiss missionary who worked in Tanzania his entire adult life. My sabbatical friend and I formed a threesome with him on the way up to a certain Benedictine priory situated off the main road rather high up in the mountains. We were able to board a bus going directly there. However, arriving at the town where we left the main road and started up the mountain, the bus stopped and parked. After a bit of asking around we learned that this was a “bite break.” Hearing this the old Capuchin insisted that we get out stretch our legs, and find something to eat. This we promptly did. The old man was actually very spry for his age and began hunting up and down the streets and alleys for a place that suited his taste.

 

In the meantime, I had noticed that the bus had never turned off its engine...an ambiguous sign, but something worth noting. Feeling a bit uneasy I counseled Fran, the sabbatical friend, to stay with me close to the door of the bus, figuring that if the door moved the bus would most likely go along with it, and that the best way back into the bus would be through that very door. No sooner did I say this, than two things happened: the old priest, far out of earshot,  turned a corner and disappear into the market, and at that very moment the bus began to move. Fran and I quickly boarded the bus as it lurched forward, and I began trying to explain to the conductor that the old man, the “Mzee,” was not aboard. But every time I started my explanation about the “Mzee,” the man cut me off, and said (in Kiswahili) “Sure, Mzee, you just get in and find your seat, everything will be fine.” Again I would say... “But the Mzee...” But the conductor would just reassure me, “Yes, Mzee, you just sit down.” So no problem. So I just sat.

 

About 3 kilometers out of town as we began climbing the mountain, the passengers sitting around us began to fidget. They had noticed that the old man’s luggage was still on board but there was no mzee to be seen. So they asked me, “Where is your mzee? What have you done with him?” All I could say was, “He is missing...completely.” At first they were upset and informed the conductor. But what to do? There was no turning back on this narrow mountain road, so we just drove on in resigned but relaxed silence.

 

Now what to do? The old man was separated from us and from his luggage. Of course he knew Swahili better than most of the natives, and I was somehow sure he had been lost before and would know how to take care of himself.. But I had never lost an 80 year-old man from a bus in Tanzania before! He would be fine, but what should I do? Finally I decided on the path of least action (almost always the best plan). When we got to our destination, we would just get out of the bus, sit, have a soda, and wait for the next conveyance coming up the hill. Most likely the Mzee would be on board and we’d have just enough time to hand him his bag and send him on. If he were not on that bus....well we we’d think about that later.

 

45 minutes and one warn Sprite later, a minivan struggled into the market place. I ran to greet it and after about 20 people had unpacked themselves, there in the back I saw the old man. He was happy to see me. And as I handed him his bag, he smiled affectionately, the way old people smile who are comfortable with being old, and called me his guardian angel. Soon a new wave of passengers crushed themselves back into the minivan, the old man was lost to sight, and soon the car was gone. Quiet settled over the market and Fran and I continued on our way.

 

Two travel stories. Everything turned out just fine in both. But I wonder how things would have gone if I had pushed the panic button... a very American thing to do. “Stop the world, something is wrong!” Here in Africa I am learning there is a current in life, a kind of tide. Or maybe it is better to say I am learning that life itself is a current that carries us along. We so often fool ourselves into thinking that we are controlling and directing affairs, but really.... We may occasionally be able to paddle to a point where the current moves us faster toward our goal or to a quiet spot where we can rest and catch our breath. But the current is moving us, we are not moving the current. People in Africa are masters of riding this current. They are somehow much more at home in the water than most of us who come from outside. It is maddening but wonderful to see and learn.

 

So that is something from here. I was hoping to write a Christmas reflection, but this is what came out instead. No problem. In any case I sincerely wish all of you and all of those you love and very happy holiday season. Maybe the Christmas reflection to add as a footnote is that Jesus came into the world, into time, into our life, not to completely overturn and readjust it, but to teach us to trust more fully his Heavenly Father, the author of time and the giver of life. Surrendering to life and to time, surrendering in faith, hope and love, without giving up, this seems to me the great challenge of human life. This is what Jesus came to empower us to do with our lives, as he did with his.  And I am finding that Africa is a very good place to learn this all-important lesson.

 

Knowing that many of your thoughts this Christmas season may be turned to helping the poor and those in great need, let me remind you that these very people come to my door every day. Some I can help, many I cannot. Much depends on what I have to share with them. Any help you can give me, I promise to use as wisely and compassion­ately as I can to assist them in their struggles in life. You can still send anything you like to me safely through Fr. Dan’s Project Fund, c/o Fr. Eric, SDS, 1735 Hi Mount Blvd., Milwaukee, WI 53208. Please keep me in your prayers in the year ahead. I will certainly be remembering you all. Love,

 

Fr. Dan